Two FRV Travel writers were in Singapore recently and tried four of Singapore’s most reputable restaurants. Within four days, Ve Handojo and Erza S.T. ventured out and experienced some impressive and innovative cuisine. Here are their findings.

Iggy’s

Erza S.T.:
Going on eight years since they first opened, Iggy’s still manages to be at the top when it comes to fine dining institutions in Singapore. The brainchild of Ignatius Chan it continues to amuse its loyal customers and patrons, and especially now at their new location at The Hilton Hotel on Orchard Road. So, it was only natural that we arrived with high expectations.

The new venue is bigger in size and designed in a modern minimalist style with strong black accents. It has a bar and dining area, though they still have the same seating capacity as the previous location. The simplicity and modernity can also be seen in the menu, where they have the five options of lunch, dinner, gastronomic, vegetarian and bar. The first four options are set menus while the bar menu is á la carte.

We chose the gastronomic menu for S$275++, a degustation set of seven courses. The amuse bouche was refreshing. Several dishes with memorable tastes for me included the char-grilled kinmedai, cappellini with white Alba truflle and pan-fried pigeon on black lentils. The food presented showed great cooking skills, it was maybe too intense to enjoy in a degustation set menu and for me lacked a certain balance.

Overall, our dinner at Iggy’s was quite interesting, though the service was very uptight and rather impatient. Reservations are a must as they have limited seating capacity but we can say that eating at Iggy’s is definitely not intended for those with a weak wallet.

Ve Handojo:
I wonder why we have to be seated in a boxy uptight room with nothing to gaze at. It’s like being trapped inside an elevator where dining elves suddenly come to serve pretty looking food. Iggy’s cubicles are mostly designed for couples. Great if you have a beautiful partner, but what if it’s just your own husband or wife of thirty years? Anyway, the array of food had a nice beginning but I won’t repeat what Erza had just mentioned. I only found the flow somewhat weird. It was subtlety after subtlety until it reached a dish named Chlorophyl – a mash of raw veggies. Then it was bigger and bigger portions of sweetness until my taste buds yearned for help.

Iggy’s
The Hilton Hotel Level 3
581 Orchard Road
Tel: +65 6732 2234

Jaan

Erza S.T.:
Jaan, or bowl in Sanskrit, is a modern French restaurant located on the 70th floor of the Equinox Complex of Swissotel The Stamford and although the skyline view is absolutely marvelous, the whole ambience here took us back to the glory days of the 90s. For over a quarter of a century, Jaan has been known as one of Singapore’s best dining institutions and over the years, it has been known for its modern Scandinavian concept. However, in October last year Jaan changed its food concept and became Modern French, specializing in artisanal menus.

We didn’t really know what to expect and wondered if it would be another style-over-substance concept. Fortunately, it wasn’t. Dish after dish, from amuse bouche to petit fours were not only superb in taste but also incredible presentation. It felt like eating a beautiful yet delicious artwork. The visual satisfaction that we had from the presentation was equally balanced by the brilliant flavours it delivered.

Highly skilled techniques, the fresh seasonal products used, the taste and the ability to showcase the food with a great aesthetic are what Chef Julien Royer is offering at Jaan. His artisanal menu also changes according to the seasonal products that are available. During our visit the highlights included Atlantic cod and baby squid with chanterelles, broad beans and smoked garlic emulsion, and the slow-cooked salt marsh Welsh lamb saddle. With some great ‘old world’ wines such as Chateaux Lafite Rothschild, eating at Jaan will surely be a dinner to savour.

Ve Handojo:
I found Jaan to be the wisest choice for group dining, especially to please your foreign clients, or your future in-laws. There is always something very exciting about dining at such great heights. I am talking about both the setting on level 70 and the aesthetics of the dishes. Complicated techniques aside, what arrived on my plates were easy to understand and digest. In short, Jaan is the place for winning hearts.

Jaan
Equinox Complex at Swissotel The Stamford.
2 Stamford Road
Tel: +65 6431 6156

Keystone

Erza S.T.:
Keystone Restaurant on Stanley Street is definitely an example of good design and taste. Slightly hidden in the central business district of Singapore, this new kid on the block dresses up in a sexy combination of black, grey and stunning red. Following the success of bistronomics (bistros that serves gastronomic cuisines) in other parts of the world like Paris and London, Keystone in Singapore is determined to give you a bold yet memorable gastronomic experience.

The contemporary menu here seems to adopt the ModOz (Modern Australian) concept with sophisticated presentation and delicious taste. My palate had a good night out especially after being seduced with duck confit kumara puree as an amuse bouche. From then on, our experience at Keystone was what I can only describe as a “joie de vivre”. More delectable and impressive dishes such as Hokkaido scallops with petit poi puree, wild monkfish with langoustine, olive roasted in a crustacean bisque, and 149ºC Blackmore wagyu brisket with Chinese broccoli and tomato gum in a polenta pool continued to satisfy our taste buds.

Not only was the food excellent, but the great service at this restaurant also inspired us for a second visit even before our first dinner was over. Without a doubt, Keystone is a really great addition to Singapore culinary landscape.

Ve Handojo:
Keystone was a find. Tucked in a narrow alley, the romance of Keystone lies in its simplicity and warmth, all endorsed by the people there. The dishes were daring and modern, but they all managed to maintain a fine balance. The monkfish with langoustine should replace that overrated chilli crab as Singapore’s frontline dish. The wagyu brisket came in a bulky portion, losing some elegance in the process, but who cares about being a gentleman when the food tastes just right?

Keystone Restaurant
11 Stanley Street
Tel: +65 6221 0046

The Knolls

Erza S.T.:
The Knolls is situated inside the gorgeous Capella Singapore resort. The mood immediately changes when you enter the space. It is more relaxing, even though it is set in a ‘fine’ environment. You could say that The Knolls is the right place to relax in style. Overlooking the South China Sea, The Knolls is designed by Indonesia’s famed Jaya Ibrahim.

Food wise, The Knolls’ Executive Chef, Jakob Esko from Sweden, goes with a healthy and hearty Mediterranean food concept and his experience in some of the world’s most renowned restaurants (including a short stint at the famous El Bulli) was something to get excited about. The first dish to arrive on our table was lobster cannelloni with Neapolitan and Parmesan emulsion. It was generous and creamy but not overwhelming. It was a beautiful dish. Since we were there in December, we also tried their traditional roast turkey with cranberry compote. It was done in the traditional manner and very scrumptious. Overall, we simply loved the taste of The Knolls modern take on authentic Mediterranean cuisine. It ended simply with a cup of Gryphon’s tea. The service here is really outstanding!

Ve Handojo:
The hardest thing to believe about The Knolls is the fact that it is “just” a breakfast venue for the guests in Capella Singapore. But if your tacky friends, or hyperactive children drag you to Sentosa for some rides, kindly save yourself and escape to pay a visit here. The extensive menu is comprised mostly of the classics, and executed with magnificent precision. Open with seafood bouillabaisse – very rich and watery it makes a perfect start. Try the crispy pork belly – so soft your knife will seem redundant. I know it sounds impossible, but please save a lot of space for the desserts. Don’t worry. Those Gryphon teas will ease your guilt later.

The Knolls
Capella Singapore
1 The Knolls – Sentosa Island
Tel: +65 6377 8888

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