Henschke Wine Dinner at The Legian
Text by Trauts
The Restaurant at The Legian is one of the most famed fine-dining restaurants in Bali – a little obscured in the razzmatazz of the local fine dining culture nowadays, but still one of the best. I hadn’t been there for some time, and so I was rather excited about the prospect of a revisit when I received a gracious invitation for a wine dinner recently. Wines from one of Australia’s top producers and food from The Legian’s executive chef – now, that’s an offer too good to resist. So, off I went on a rain-threatened Sunday evening to Seminyak Beach and The Legian Hotel.
After pre-dinner cocktails and champagne in the Lobby Lounge and Bar, the entourage of the some 50 fine wine and food lovers moved into the main dining area. Once the party was seated, a short welcome and introduction to Henschke wines was presented by wine maker and special guest, Stephen Henschke. Stephan and his wife Prue, a viticulturist in her own right, are the current custodians of the Henschke vineyard sited in Eden Valley within the Barrossa Valley region of South Australia. First planted in 1862, and after five generations of family members’ input, Henschke is now one of the most highly rated and established wineries in Australia.
Executive Chef Dorin Schuster presented the perfect wine pairing menu for the night with a selection of white and red Henschke wines making their way to the table. I was seated next to Prue Henschke, amongst other media luminaries, on a table of approximately ten people. While the rain began to bucket down outside the open walls of the restaurant’s dining area, dishes began to make their way to our elongated table.
A scallop ceviche with cauliflower couscous and lime vinaigrette was placed before me and it just about took the entire show. Such an early winner, but the marinated sliced scallop on the bed of couscous was simply divine, but the wine, a Tilly’s Vineyard 2007 blend didn’t really do the dish justice.
Next up was a slow-cooked ocean trout with sea kelp with a dash of Avruga caviar and tarragon oil. For some reason, and without looking at the menu, at first I thought it was a piece of salmon and once I had a taste, I thought and verbalised, ‘that’s a strange tasting salmon’. Mrs Henschke to my left pointed out that it was ocean trout and left me thinking I should keep my mouth shut. The light flavours of the trout were a little too subtle for me, but the wine, a Julius Eden Valley Riesling, was beginning to head in the right direction.
Next came the meats and the big reds. Grain-fed lamb croquette with wholegrain mustard and shiso, lime and lemon basil butter sauce, and then on the next plate, a duo of beef which included a charcoal grilled wagyu striploin and an oxtail crepinette with celeriac puree, Anna potato and shiraz jus. Now, this was getting interesting. Both these dishes were inventive and exciting to the eye and palate. The wagyu in particular was a tender slice, perfectly cooked and presented. Both the wines that accompanied this stretch of the meal were out of this world in body and elegance with the Mount Edelstone Shiraz 2006 clearly taking out the evening’s honours.
At this stage Mr Henshke was back on the floor talking up the next and final wine, a Grenache blend called Johannes Garden 2007. He has been behind the resurgence of this particular variety over the past few years promoting the new Grenache Day, and pushing the variety whenever he has the chance. It’s big and fruity, but a little sweet for my liking. That wine was paired with a wonderful cheese platter that finished the evening in fine style.
The rain continued to pour down outside, which gave me the chance to catch up with a few guests before leaving. Everyone agreed, top wines and delicious food. As GM Carla Petzold-Beck pointed out, Sundays are not your usual wine dinner nights, but as far as I’m concerned, and most people there agreed, that the trend should be continued.
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