Caprice restaurant at the Four Seasons Hong Kong serves the best in contemporary french cuisine, and to a very discerning crowd. but as Thomas Jones finds out, much to his enjoyment, it is not always the main menu that leaves the best impression.

Caprice for me was an experience in pure chance. It was lunchtime in Hong Kong and I was headed out for a bowl of noodles and duck to satisfy a simple hunger. In the downward elevator I suddenly developed a hankering for a midday glass of wine or two. Caprice came to mind so I thought to check out the restaurant and kill these two birds with one stone.

One of only seven restaurants in Hong Kong to receive two prestigious Michelin stars, Caprice serves the finest in modern French cuisine and pairs it with some of the world’s best wines, over 1000 bottles at last count. The highlight, however, that was piquing my interest, was Hong Kong’s widest selection of artisanal French cheeses outside of a French supermarket, and the chance of a peek into the exclusive Caprice cellar. I don’t usually drink wine this early in the day, but there was fromage in the air and it would have been rude not to.

It was a good decision, for Caprice is a feast of haute couture meets haute cuisine. Entry to Caprice is via a catwalk of light, allowing guests to take in the room on the way to their table – and the room to cast a few admiring gazes back. It is filled with exquisite Czech crystal chandeliers, art deco paintings, and rich fabrics in reds, blacks and gold, which set off the Chinese antiques in perfect harmony.It’s an updated interpretation of the Asian aesthetic by French artisans, inspired by Hong Kong’s history as a crossroads for sea trade between Europe and Asia. And outside, those superb and famous views over Victoria Harbour and the Kowloon Peninsula.

With wine in hand, I glanced at the menu of these artisanal cheeses and struck up a conversation with their resident cheese expert, who after sensing my passion for the curd, offered an invitation to enter the coveted cheese cellar. The sight of all the blocks and wheels, of what can only be described as mind-bogglingly outstanding cheeses, was overpowering.

Those who dine à la française know that the extended experience of sharing exquisite dishes and perfectly matched wines must include a great cheese course, and the offer of a taste soon turned into a small feast du fromage; Époisses, Port Salut, Neufchâtel, Roquefort, Camembert, and Comté, names almost as romantic as their tastes.

I had inadvertently foregone the main course altogether and as a result enjoyed a lunch like never before. Two glasses of Merlot, a huge pile of cheese, and of course, dare I say it again, that view. Hong Kong like never before, and probably never again. Mais non, je ne regrette rien!

www.fourseasons.com/hongkong

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