Text By Herman von Bernhardi

It’s no secret that wines have not been a big part of traditional Indonesian culture, but over the past few years many locals have started showing an interest in discovering and understanding more about all the characteristics of this wonderfully complex concoction. At the same time Indonesian sommeliers have been starting to show their customers that pairing food and wines is not exclusive to westerners and many of them are up to the challenge. In this edition of FRV Travel we visit Metis restaurant to talk to one of Indonesia’s youngest and most talented sommeliers about wines and how he became involved in a world usually dominated by those from outside of Indonesia.

Hi Eko, please tell us about yourself?
My name is Kurniawan Eko Putro but everybody calls me Eko. I was born and raised in Jakarta 20 something years ago, and moved to Bali five years ago.

What and where did you study?
After graduating from Santa Ursula BSD Senior High, I went to Swiss Hotel Management School in Caux, Montreaux for three years, where everything started.

When did your affair with wine and food begin?
During my college years, of course as part of the curriculum, you have to know everything about wines – description/pairing/service, etc. During wine and bar classes, I was the most active student in terms of asking questions and, of course, drinking. I was very curious about wines back then, and I still am.

What do you like about wines the most?
I like the mystery, the uncertainty of what pours out from the bottle. Am I opening it too soon? Does it go with the food? And most importantly, will the client like it? Many things go through my mind while opening a bottle of wine.

How did you become a sommelier?
Well, I like drinking first of all, so it was an easy decision. After my internship at The Setai in Miami Beach (USA), I was transferred to The Legian as a restaurant supervisor. They have a cellar and a sommelier. I started helping out with the training and what began as a side duty became my main priority, and here I am now. I have never looked back.

Is it difficult being a sommelier from a country like Indonesia that has no tradition with wines?
For me personally, I don’t see nationality as an issue. I mean, look at me now, your average local guy recommending wine in a French restaurant. Do our clientele see it as an issue? I don’t think so. However, I do find language a small barrier. It’s kind of difficult to explain some wine jargon to my colleagues but thankfully the Indonesian sommelier Yohan Handoyo from Decanter in Jakarta wrote a book about wine in our language, so I use this book to help them learn, plus we do a lot of follow up training.

“I was the most active student, in terms of asking questions and, of course, drinking ”

What do you think of other Indonesian sommeliers?
First, not so many of our sub-species exist. Here in Bali I meet up with them sometimes to trade news and to catch up and, of course, to drink wines, but mostly gossiping…about wine, of course. In Jakarta there are more Indonesians sommeliers such as Suyanto from the Four Seasons, Bobby Corputy at Cork & Screw and Adam at Union. I don’t know them personally but I met them during the ISA (Indonesian Sommelier Association) Competition last year. It’s incredible. We can learn so much by simply talking to each other.

Knowledge-wise, I’m confident that we can rub shoulders with our counterparts anywhere in the world. We just need more exposure and more tasting to broaden our palate.

How do you create your wine list? What or who are your influences?
I’d stick to the classics. By type; champagne, white, red, and sweet. By region; old world first then new world. I’m not into organizing my wine list into grapes or by style such as crisp, light, full-bodied, etc. For me, the selection that’s available in the Indonesian market lacks diversity.

The house wines at Metis change monthly, so it’s always refreshing to see some changes. I make big changes whenever Chefs Doudou and Arief change their menus. With their seasonal products, their new sauces that come with certain dishes, I’ll try to bring a wine to match them because food is amazing on its own, but with the right pairing, it’ll do wonders.

How would you describe your wine list at Metis?
I’d say “French-oriented” as we are a French establishment, but I’m confident in our selection from other countries as well. Here we have simple, everyday, entry level wines right through to stratospheric, grand cru, drop-of-god-like wines. Plus, I’ve still got a few aces up in my sleeve. I have a few wines that other establishments in Bali don’t have. I mean, who’s crazy enough to put a single vineyard petit verdot from Chile (von Siebenthal Toknar 2006 just awarded with a Grand Gold Medal at Concours Mondial de Bruxelles 2011, by the way) or a South African pinot noir and another pinot noir from Germany? Me.

Do they sell?
Well, not as easy as an OTU sauvignon-blanc for example but once they do sell, often my clientele like it and keep coming back for more, opening the chance for me to pour something different for them.

What do you think about the relationship between wines and food?
It’s just like a human relationship, like a husband and wife to be precise. Sometimes the wife is the one who dominates; sometimes men talk while women listen. To make the marriage work, there should be harmony, a situation where one complements the other.
If not it may ended up in divorce, and as we all know, divorce can cost a lot…

Why do you think a sommelier is important in a fine dining restaurant such as Metis?
Not just at Metis, but I believe that any establishment proud of their food should consider the synergy between food and drink, especially wine. One plus one doesn’t always add up to two. It can be five, seven, or even ten. It’s more than the sum of its parts. Like I said earlier, wine is a mystery, a nice food with a nice wine, with nice company? Something good beyond words is happening at the end, and that kind of atmosphere is what we all want for our clientele, no?

Which one is your personal favorite wine pairing? Why?
I particularly enjoy a German riesling, preferably trocken, with nasi campur. It is what I eat almost every day, and for me it just goes well. There is no vinocentric reason for that. It just goes well.

New world wines and old world wines; which ones do you prefer? Tell us three wines from each available at Metis.
I’m lucky for being what I am, as I am exposed to both wines. However, my palate always gets a thirst for old world wines, be it French, Italian, German, or whatever. My personal favourites from the Metis wine list are:

Old World:
-Noir de Diel 2007, Germany
-Billecart Salmon Brut Rose NV
-Roger Sabon « Reserve » Chateauneuf du Pape 2007, France
New World:
-Parcela #7 von Siebenthal 2006, Chile
-Palmer Sauvignon Blanc 2009, Australia
-Château Reynella Basket Press Shiraz 2006, Australia

Have you or your wine list won awards?
Thankfully yes, Metis won an Award of Excellence, from Wine Spectator two years running (2010/2011). I also won the same award for The Legian back in 2007-2009. As for me personally I still have a long way to go before winning an award.

What influences have Said and Doudou from Metis had on your work?
Being French, they taught me a few French phrases and their cult-like-love of French wines. You know French are like that. Doudou mesmerized me with the beauty of cru bourgeois, how approachable they are while young and how age transforms them from a simple cocoon to a beautiful butterfly. Whilst Said shared his passion of St. Julien’s elegance. Both veterans in Bali fine dining, they have a lot to share, and all I need to do is to learn as much as I can from them.

Why do you think Metis have been successful from the very beginning?
I’m humbled with any remark stating Metis’ success. Still, we believe that we still have things to improve, and always more room to grow. This is also the culmination of Doudou and Said’s effort for the past 15 years in the business. They maintain a large group of clientele that appreciate their craft. All I can do to contribute is to make it even better by pairing Doudou’s wonderful food with Said’s vision of wine. They trust me on the wine here, so it’s only natural that I give back that trust.

What is the difference between western and local customers for you?
Not much. I use the same approach at every table. I greet, I get information, I go get the wine. I know people think that in a restaurant the staff treat locals differently, but it’s not the case here at Metis. As a matter of fact, the one who bought my Petrus, my Haut-Brion is a polite businessman from Jakarta. The one who bought my Opus One – four bottles of them, is from Holland.

However, there is one thing I notice. Westerners are more direct in saying what they want, they usually start with “What do you think of this or that? We’re having foie gras ravioli and Chateaubriand.” They’re more comfortable in stating their opinion, and simply wish to hear mine and see if I have something better in mind. Whereas the locals are sometimes more open to suggestions, they ask me, “What’s good? What’s popular?” To which I ask them what they like, and what are they going to order. What’s good for me doesn’t always translate well for them. The same goes with popular wine. The fact that everybody orders them doesn’t guarantee that you will like it. I’m here to help you find something that you’ll like.

How do you see your relationship with your customer?
Imagine you’re on a trip, you have a map with you but you’re just not sure where to go. I’m just the friendly guy who happens to be around that you can ask for directions. Just let me know where you’re heading, what you expect and I’ll show you how to get there, with some recommendations along the way. That’s how I view myself with my customers.

Thanks for your time Eko.

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