In November 2006, restaurateur Tony Stewart transformed a derelict Auckland warehouse space into a spectacular dining room to create a distinctly unique gastronomic journey. He conceptualized Clooney through the fact that there were a lack of restaurants in the city offering a complete dining experience, one that allowed you to step away from the ordinary, and one that he himself would want to dine in.

By Thomas Jones

Located in Sale Street in Auckland’s ‘empty quarter’, the mile or so between Auckland’s restaurant high life of Ponsonby and the waterfront, Clooney is all about the diner and offers intimacy within a sumptuous interior. Particular consideration is given to how the diner interacts with their environment in the use of space, lighting and comfort. From the maitre d’ greeting at the front desk to the décor, to the service, the food and the spot lit tables designed to enhance menu reading and food presentation, the guest is king.

The interiors of Clooney are reminiscent of being backstage at the theatre, with exposed concrete beams, ducting, curtain rails and walls oozing dried mortar inviting the guest to be an insider, a part of the director’s behind-the-scenes world where there are no illusions, only a raw theatrical reality laid bare for all to see. The lighting is subtle and mysterious. Shed by hand-blown globes that hang from the ceiling like 19th century gas lamps, it provide patrons with a delicate intimacy within the dark, brooding and sensuous industrial interior of the restaurant.

The tables and seating have been individually designed to meet the space and give the customer enough elbow room to let the conversation flow unrestricted. Long woven threads form curtains that hang down from large, exposed circular rods on the high ceilings that overlap like a broken Olympic flag, and enclose the large round tables without blocking the views of other patrons. The acoustics are such that the combined level of chatter only serves to quietly share the combined energy from each table around the room, enhancing each guest’s experience.

Inspired by traditionalism and finished with a contemporary slant, Executive Chef Des Harris takes a modern approach to classic flavour combinations in his kitchen. The food is expertly crafted, expresses assertive flavours and eats incredibly well. The latter being something that means a tremendous amount to Des. “Our dishes have just enough playful technique to be intriguing without losing the integrity of the fine ingredients,” says Tony Stewart, the owner. Prior to joining in 2008 Des was at the Martinborough Hotel in New Zealand’s Wairarapa district, one of the country’s best wine growing regions, where he won a Cuisine Magazine award for Best Regional Restaurant. Since being at Clooney he has had numerous accolades both with Cuisine and Auckland’s Metro Magazines.

“While the food is all about Des, my contribution at the start was to think through the dining experience that I ultimately wanted and to create it,” says Tony. This experience is ably enacted by Clooney’s mature and disciplined floor staff, led by Tony himself. Tony’s commitment to excellence is such that he leads by example and he can regularly be seen working the floor alongside his staff. “I enjoy knowing my customers and no one quite sees the detail I see and my staff appear to respect my lead-by-example method as well.”

The staff are indeed diligent and can answer any question you may have about any of the materials or the restaurant itself. In fact our waiter’s knowledge of the food and wine was so encyclopedic that he probably would have known the name of the ostrich who supplied my sashimi, or at least the farmer who raised it, if I had have pressed him further. When we ordered oysters and asked as to the recommended wine the response was naturally ‘Champagne’, but not just any old French variety, no! Without thinking, the answer was a ‘Cloudy Bay Pelorus sparkling’, patriotic and perfect. Despite the grand quality of NZ wines, however, Tony is trying to press more European wines onto the menu to broaden the horizons of the Kiwi wine drinker, a very dedicated local consumer—never a bad thing—but potentially shy to the many other great wines of the world.

Attention to detail, a tireless work ethic, the ability to anticipate the customer’s every need and Tony’s perseverance and vision have paid off with him being awarded Restaurateur of the Year in 2009 at the Cuisine NZ Restaurant of the Year Awards. It is easy to concur with the judges for Clooney is a delight to visit with outstanding wines, food and proud staff and above all, it’s fun. A cause célèbre of good taste both in surroundings and on the plate.

Clooney
33 Sale Street
Freemans Bay,
Auckland, New Zealand
+64 09 358 1702
www.clooney.co.nz

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